First published 28th July 2008 on

Well it’s been a funny few days, and much like my time in Peru I’ve been mainly Norma No Mates, as my sister’s had some urgent work to go and do (I suspect I may have outstayed my welcome as spending 5 weeks in another country speaking a different language seems to have made me more autistic than usual). I’ve gotten ferries to 2 other islands and explored Road Town (Tortola’s main town – it has a road and a traffic island (which is pointed out on the tourist info map!) and the Governers house and “Craft Village” (which seems to mainly be selling items made in India, although I did buy a nice brooch from the pensioners collective shop (all proceeds go to the pensioner who made the item) made out of – fish scales!

View from Governor's House, Road Town

The boat to Virgin Gorda was fun, fast and very choppy – with most passengers quickly moving to the middle of the top deck to avoid being splashed by massive waves. Once there the place is pretty desolate with only the harbour in Spanish Town having many people about. I decided to walk to Little Dix Bay for some unknown reason) and after crossing some dry and desolate terrain strewn with cactuses and probably bufallo skulls, found a lush resort which I figured must be far too exclusive for the likes of me.

Getting away from it all on Virgin Gouda.


Nonetheless I checked out the lovely beach and had a swim – stopping short of joining the queue for the buffet at the restaurant. Heading back for a slightly bleaker walk I was chuffed to get a lift from a lovely lady called Nelly who worked at the resort and seemed impossibly cheerful and friendly. I made my way to a restaurant the book had described as having a “large selection of Carribean food”. However the restaurant had changed it’s name from “Dixies” to “The New Dixies” (always a bad sign) and seemed to offer only fried chicken. That’s not to say there wasn’t a selection! There was fried chicken wings, breast, drumsticks, legs and thighs. I went for thighs rather foolishly(expecting the small affair we get from Tescos in the UK) to be confronted by 2 GIGANTIC chicken thighs coated in delicious and artery clogging batter. After making my way through most of them and providing the locals with amusement I made my way back to the ferry dock, and didn’t have anything else to eat for the rest of the day.

Little Dix Bay. Idyllic and amusingly named.

The following day was spent by myself Cane Garden Bay Beach swimming whilst it rained and burning whilst the sun shone, then yesterday I took the ferry to Jost Van Dyke Island – spotting a massive dolphin curiously eyeing up our boat half way across. This place is totally gorgeous and laid back- my idea of a tropical island.

Great Harbour

The main town “Great Harbour’s” busiest street is a sandy pathway connecting beach bars (and the picket fenced police station) – most of which I had to visit there or on White Bay (a beautiful beach with warm shallow water which I had a lovely swim and float in and coral reefs close to the shore).

Brilliant advertising for a beach restaurant on White Bay

After having many combinations on The Painkiller (the local cocktail) – the best at Ivan’s Stress Free Bar where Ivan recommended St Croix rum (which an old Dutch sailor at the bar claimed was the only Island rum worth drinking) and proceeded to shake half a bottle into the cocktail mix – or the vanilla ones at Foxy’s tamarind bar – the least exciting at The Soggy Dollar where ironically the drink is said to have originated), and watching the world (and a load of crabs) go by – I got the rickety ferry back through a rainstorm (there was a rainbow over Tortola), met Dawn and we had dinner at Quitos in Cane Island Bay watching the sky light up from a tropical storm (apparently only a “Tropical Wave” in the island’s scheme of things – a real storm must be much much worse) which continued all night causing a 7 hour power cut.

Chillin at Ivan's Peace Bar

Woke up to discover the house gecko nearly dead clinging to the curtains. We still have a giant millipede living on the wall out of reach – have we missed some sort of primordial lizard..insect clash of the Titans?

House gecko RIP